Earlier this year, Lakeside News’ Senior Reporter ventured into uncharted territory with her first adventure to Northern Italy. In the July edition, she shared her discoveries of her Overseas Adventure Travel “Northern Italy and the Dolomites” during the first eight days of her 16-day journey with 15 other travelers from the U.S.
This is “the rest of the story,” picking up where she and other adventurers had just enjoyed a home-hosted meal with a young local family with two young children.
From ice angels to the Ice Man: Northern Italy reveals her colors
Viewing Leonardo’s “The Last Summer” and a trip on the UNESCO Bernini Train through a snowstorm to a ski lodge were the highlights of our first week in Northern Italy, but the best was still ahead of us. As we bid arrivederci to Tirano, Lake Iseo awaited.
Our Trip Leader Amy introduced us to her mom, dad, and her aunt and uncle (second row)
Our trip leader Amy told us we’d find surprise at the Iseolago Hotel, a resort compound with private beaches on the lake. We never would have guessed that she brought her parents (Rosanna and Giuseppe) and an aunt and uncle (Santuzza and Beppe) to meet us. What an unexpected treat.
It’s rare to meet the families of our trip leaders. Often they work far from their family homes and stay on the road for two to three weeks for each trip. Sometimes they lead two trips back to back, but at other times, they have breaks between journeys. Some trip leaders lead as many as 8 to 12 trips per year; that’s a lot of time away from family.
It was her mom’s birthday, so we all learned the Italian words to “Happy Birthday” and sang to her. Her mom almost teared up.
The following day, another surprise: Because it was her husband Matteo’s birthday – and he’s a photographer. He joined us for the day to explore several small villages and the large island on Lake Iseo called Monte Isola. We also explored a nearby nature park through wetlands and marshes. Of course, we sang the Italian version of “Happy Birthday” to Matteo as well.
Our lunch visit to an olive oil farm included bruschetta with three different toppings.
On our way to our next hotel in Trento, more culinary experiences took us to an olive oil farm. Tastings – yes, not all olive oil is the same – exposed us to samples that were grassy, peppery, apple-like and nutty. It was hard to choose my favorite, so I brought home several different bottles. I also discovered rose balsamic vinegar, a delicately sweet pale pink liquid that I use on my salads here at home.
While traveling between cities, we typically go by bus, so “coffee breaks” (code word) come about every two hours. We’ll stretch our legs and usually spend time in a picturesque place learning about its specialties and a chance to take photos. A 45-minute stop in Desenzano on the shores of Lake Gardo, with a short climb to a castle overlooking the harbor for spectacular views. Our itinerary didn’t include an overnight stay in this trendy – read expensive – town, but Trento proved to be perfect – walkable, friendly with excellent restaurants and plenty of history. The city square is built over ancient Roman ruins that we toured, and the 13th- century fortress Castello del Buonconsiglio housed the city’s bishop-princes from the 13th century until 1801.
Next stop: Bressanone, also called Brixen, in the Alto Adige/South Tyrol region, with stunning views of wildflower-covered hillsides and homes that look more like they belong in Bavaria or Austria than in Italy. The residents speak German in this area, also called South Tyrol and most of the food is German influenced, such as ravioli stuffed with sour cabbage or jam and deep fried.
Our days based in Bressanone allowed us to easily travel by train to nearby Bolzano for the day where we’d meet several interesting people.
Scientists have created a life-sized figure of Otzi the Iceman, a remarkably preserved mummified figure that now has its own exhibit in the Tyrol Museum of Archeology.
First, the push-me/pull-me cultures of Austria and Italy in this area made for good conversations with Gerte and Thomas. She’s German and is married to an American; he’s Italian and his wife is Austrian. While both are from the South Tyrol region, Thomas’ mom is German speaking while his dad’s family speaks Italian. They explained the clouded identity and culture of the area, part of the Austrian Empire and the Hapsburgs for more than 400 years. After WWI a small part was given to Austria and two thirds of the land came under Italian rule.
Mussolini forced everyone to speak Italian and the Germans to abandon their ancestral roots and customs. Native Germans were forced to fight for Hitler and families lost their farms and homes. When Italy joined the Allies the Germans living in South Tyrol were ostracized and tensions began.
Our speakers explained that it has taken nearly 100 years for the two cultures to live together. Every family now eats spaghetti, but there are still 85 different types of bread available that satisfy each of the cultures.
I’d never heard of the Otzi the Iceman but I was soon to make his acquaintance in his own museum in Bolzano. The story goes that a couple hiking in the high mountains in South Tyrol discovered his mummified remains on September 19, 1991. The find set off a series of events, including determining that he lived between 3350 and 3105 BC, during the Copper Age.
Scientists came together to determine his age, lifestyle, cause of death and to better preserve his body for study. They have preserved the personal items, including a coat, shoes, a bearskin cap, a copper axe blade and some tools. Displays, interpretive signage and videos in the three-story South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology go into great depth about the discovery. Scientists have created a life-sized figure of Otzi that’s on display. Interesting, to say the least.
Snow-capped Dolomites off in the distance.
Nearing the end of our trip, the real star of the show was just ahead: The Dolomites. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, these dramatic vertical mountains in the Alps are a combination of volcanic and dolomitic rocks that turn pink or orange at sunset and sunrise. Nineteen peaks are more than 10,000 feet high. The winding switchbacks and deep valleys are like being on a roller coaster. It’s common for motorcyclists and sports-car enthusiasts to spend a day cruising there, just for the thrill.
In the summer, hikers and cyclists are common. In the winter it’s a snow-skier’s paradise.
Aside from their beauty, the Dolomites’ cultural mix of Austrian/German, Italian and a third called Ladin. This language, not like German or Italian, is an ancient Romance language spoken centuries ago and still used by natives today. Road signs are written in all three languages, the food is a combination of the three cultures: think ham, called speck, wursts, polenta, dumplings, hearty soups and pancakes filled with spinach.
All too soon, it was time to head home. Our last night – with our tradition farewell dinner – was spent at a resort in the Venetian countryside. Leaving before dawn for the Venice Marco Polo Airport, it was still hard to say goodbye to my latest Italian experience. As I reflected on the previous two weeks I realized the appeal of global travel: learning about other people who are different than we are, putting real places and faces onto the history of the world, and just plain relaxing to enjoy a brand-new experience.
What will your next adventure be? What’s on your bucket list? On mine? You’ll need to stay tuned.
Photos: by Pamela A. Keene
