Deck filled with both Asiatic and Oriental lilies.
Stunning blooms of six-petaled Asiatic and Oriental lilies convey elegance and grace in a home landscape, whether planted as borders, at the back of a flower bed or in containers. Exotic and vibrant, both types are often used by florists for a touch of drama in a cut arrangement.
Both Asiatic and Oriental lilies, grown from bulbs, are fairly easy to cultivate and can put on quite a show. For the past several years, I’ve enjoyed the window boxes on my deck that reward me year after year with stately plants that deliver red, orange and golden lilies with little or no work.
To the inexperienced eye, each type can be mistaken for the other; however, a few characteristics can tell the tale.
Asiatic lilies are fragrance-free in colors that range from creamy white to bright reds, soft pinks, cheery yellow, hot pink, oranges and multicolored. The blossoms are clustered at the top of the stem.
Oriental lilies are very fragrant and can last in a vase for weeks. “Stargazer,” among the most well-known and a very popular choice for florists, is easily identifiable because of its deep pink and white freckled blossoms.
Oriental lilies can be white, pink and red; the blossoms are larger than those of the Asiatic lily, sometimes reaching 6 to 7 inches in diameter. The flowers typically occur along the stem.
The deep orange pollen of both Asiatic and Oriental lilies can stain fabrics or skin, so it’s best to remove the pollen-laden stamens when bringing them inside as a cut flower. Removing the stamens will not reduce the fragrance.
Asiatic lilies bloom before Oriental lilies each spring, so for maximum impact and a succession of blossoms, plant both.
Many gardeners create borders using varieties that are 18 to 22 inches tall, combining both Asiatic and Oriental lilies. When the Asiatics are finished blooming, they’ll be followed by flushes of flowers from the Orientals. Both are excellent to bring indoors and can last for several weeks in vases.
Taller varieties can also be combined as a dynamic backdrop for shorter perennials. Plant them in big sweeps for impact. An alternative is to plant the bulbs in odd-numbered groupings, about 6 to 8 inches apart.
Removing the faded flowers helps the plant put its energy in building a strong bulb for next season rather than making seeds. Leaving the leaves on the stems because they will help nourish the bulb.
Once the stems have turned brown in the fall, remove them and add several inches of mulch. The bulbs will multiply, so every three or four years, dig the plants and divide them.
Lilies can thrive in the ground or in containers. Check out such companies such as Longfield Gardens, www.longfield-gardens.com, Brecks, www.brecks.com or Holland Bulb Farms, www.hollandbulbfarms.com. They’ll be delivered at the proper time for planting.
Plant the bulb at a depth of three times the bulb’s height, then cover with soil and gently tamp it down. Mulch the planting site to help keep the roots cool and reduce the need for weeding.
Lilies need about 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight. Keep them watered if the soil feels dry at a depth of an inch or so and stake taller varieties. Apply a high-potassium fertilizer every two weeks until six weeks after blooming,
For a one-time investment to purchase bulbs, you’ll be rewarded year after year with stunning blooms that will knock your socks off. Give them a try.
Photo: by Pamela A. Keene
