Here’s Part 2 of Lakeside Senior Reporter Pam Keene’s most recent overseas journey. Traveling “down under,” she and her husband Rick Fulgham recently spent almost three weeks in Australia and New Zealand. The journey, curated by Overseas Adventure Travel, was a study in contrasts of indigenous people, natural forests, stunning landscapes and, once again, a chance to see how the other half of the world lives.
Natural beauty, ancient traditions distinguish New Zealand’s attraction
Although their country’s flags are similar, don’t make the mistake of confusing Australia and New Zealand – for so many reasons. Yes, the people have similar accents, but once you’ve spent some time around both, it’s pretty easy to tell the Aussies from the Kiwis.
And yes, both countries are located in the southwestern Pacific, and both are members of the British Commonwealth of Nations. Both countries’ flags have the Union Jack in the upper left-hand corner, have blue fields with stars on them.
But this is where the similarities end. The country’s two distinct islands – South Island and North Island – are a contrast of nature.
South Island’s protected forests and large lake
View from the plane of New Zealand’s South Island and Queensland.
As we flew from Sydney into Queenstown, NZ on South Island, we soared over snow-capped peaks, but when we landed the temperatures were cool, but not cold. However, venture up the mountains in August, the end of winter, and ski suits, gloves, hats, goggles are the proper attire.
Queenstown at this time of year is filled with sports tourists – snow skiers, snow boarding – who come from around the world to play on its world-class ski fields. Our hotel lobby posted daily ski reports about depth and conditions and guests came in and out with skis and snowboards.
Mind you, we were a bit over 1,000 feet above sea level in town, about the same as Lake Lanier. But the country’s Southern Alps that run the length of South Island can reach as high as 12,000 feet.
Winter thaw, in August, creates many waterfalls in Milford Sound.
Our trip didn’t include snow skiing but it was fun and a bit curious to see so many people in winter gear when back home the temperatures were in the 90s.
On South Island, we visited Fiordland National Park for a half-day boat ride through Milford Sound, with its dozens of cascading waterfalls, tall sheer cliffs, rock bluffs and New Zealand fur seals. Breathtaking.
Back in Queenstown, we were treated to a ride on the TSS Earnslaw, a 1912 coal-powered steamship that took us to Walter Park Sheep Station for a walk around the farm and high tea.
Our itinerary called for four nights on each island, so soon we were off to North Island’s Rotorua, a small city known for its Māori culture and its natural thermal pools. Steam rose up from the most unexpected places, along the lake, between stones and from major rock formations.
The people of both Australia and New Zealand share great respect for the indigenous people who’ve lived on these massive islands for centuries, but for me never was it more evidenced than in North Island’s Rotorua.
Demonstration of how Māori used sticks to intimidate enemies.
Rick receives a Māori welcome from our host in Rotorua.
We were welcomed into St. Faith’s Anglican Church by an ex-pat. He married a Māori woman years ago.
Intricate carvings on large pieces of wood become collectors items, replicating centuries-old patterns and methods.
We were greeted by a Māori man who told us the stories of how his people came to be in New Zealand centuries ago, traveling across large water in dugout canoes, navigating by the stars, winds and ocean currents.
Rick was asked to be our group’s “chief” and accept our host’s welcome and speak on our behalf of our journey from America.
Our host’s walking tour took us to the Tudor-style St. Faiths Church that sits on the shores of the lake within the Ohinemutu village. Built in 1910, it is a Christian church that welcomes all.
One of my favorite parts of the trip was the Te Puia Cultural Center. It houses New Zealand’s national carving and weaving schools. Students come from across the country to learn the ancient methods so that the traditional art will not be lost to future generations.
Steam and geysers erupt from below the rocks in the hot springs.
A young Māori woman led us through the woods to a large rocky area of natural geysers and steaming pools. The land has been deeded to the Māori in perpetuity and they readily accept the responsibility of caring for this natural resource.
A friend back home warned me that Rotorua “was stinky,” but having grown up in north Florida I was used to the rotten-egg smell that permeated our drinking water at home.
The hot sulfur springs that bubbled, perked and shot towers of steam into the air were captivating.
That evening the Māori entertained our group with storytelling, song and dance. Their facial expressions and energy left me wanting more time to be with these amazing people who love the land with sincere hearts.
Out in the middle of nowhere Hobbiton Movie Set and Tourist Farm attracts millions of tourists from around the world each year.
As our time in New Zealand drew near, our trip leader Anna arranged a special treat – a visit to Hobbiton. Billed as a movie set and tourist farm, the 1,250-acre sheep farm was chosen by location scouts in 1998 because of its rolling hills and a towering pine tree that is now known as the Party Tree.
About two-thirds of our group immersed themselves in The Shire that is dotted with nearby Hobbit Holes and other sites familiar to those who are “Lord of the Rings” fans.
The rest of us stopped off to pick them up on our way to Auckland and all our traveling companions raved about the authenticity, their time in The Shire, and how awesome it was. They were among nearly annual 650,000 visitors, most of whom come from overseas to this remote part of North Island.
Auckland’s Sky Tower glistened in the evening rain, creating a watercolor wash.
As we made our way to Auckland, rain began to fall, the first of our trip. It didn’t dampen our spirits as we settled in to our final hotel of the trip. Anna’s orientation walk from the hotel to the main part of the city helped us get our bearings. The Sky Tower was just blocks from our hotel.
We also visited the Auckland War Memorial Museum that’s about much more than the country’s war history. It tells the story of New Zealand, and one full floor is dedicated to the Māori. The imposing columned building sits on a hill overlooking Auckland Harbor that was the site of America’s Cup competitions in 2000 and 2003.
Speaking of sailing, our itinerary listed “sailing on the harbor” as an included activity, but the whole time we were in Auckland winds were whipping at between 25-30 knots. To my disappointment, our sail was canceled.
Overseas Adventure Travel ends each journey with a Farewell Dinner, which we enjoyed overlooking Auckland Harbor. As the sun set, we toasted our time “down under” and prepared for the long flights home.
It was really rather funny – in a ha! ha! sort of way – looking back. Our flights to Australia took three days because of crossing the international date line and changing so many time zones. But on the way back from New Zealand, we left at 6:30 a.m. their time and got back home on the same day at 6 p.m. Now that’s the way to go.
Photos: by Pamela A. Keene
