Seals coming to great the kayak.
With the advent of summer my mind begins to wander, and I still have memories of descending through an overcast sky to land on a rain-drenched runway that was only 4,800 feet long in a Boeing 737! Though he needed the entire runway to stop the big jet, the pilot did a tremendous job of safely landing the heavy aircraft near the remote Indian village at Masset.
Despite the constant rain, a low altitude helicopter flight allowed a view of the remote landscape that few except the Haida Indians have ever trod. We flew over a small portion of the Queen Charlotte Islands that are known to the natives as Haida Gwaii (Islands of the People). This archipelago of 150 misty isles is a unique section of British Columbia, Canada that is experienced by few.
We emerged over the protected bay of the Naden River that pours its fresh waters into the open Pacific Ocean through a narrow opening that is just 50 miles south of Ketchikan, Alaska. The big chopper landed on a place that was once inhabited by nearly 10,000 Haida Indians before diseases introduced by white settlers reduced their numbers to less than a hundred. Also, around the beginning of the 20th century, a huge whaling operation was built here. Though only remnants remain of the whaling or the former Indian village, one can’t help but feel the spirit of the Haida or imagine the toughness of the whalers in the wet and windy beauty of this harsh, but beautiful land.
Happy faces and a halibut.
The largest draw to this area is the one-of-a-kind possibility to catch king salmon that exceed 50 pounds. These fishing grounds are the perfect habitat for hungry salmon beginning their homeward migration from all over the North Pacific to rivers along the west coasts of Canada and the United States. The abundance of these huge fish and other salmon species throughout these sheltered waters is legendary among the native tribes as well as knowledgeable anglers everywhere.
In addition to the migrating salmon populations, the whole area is a spawning ground for tasty halibut, lingcod and numerous species of rockfish. For fly and spin fishermen, opportunities abound to catch coastal cutthroat trout, sea-run Dolly Varden trout and during the colder months, steelhead trout enter many of the nearby rivers.
A bear and eagle share an uneasy truce.
Probably the most educational outing is to use a fishing boat or a sea kayak and explore the many shorelines and inlets. This also incorporates plenty of wildlife viewing, which in the Queen Charlotte Islands can be varied and interesting. Depending on the season, visitors may see many strange birds and quite a few different mammals including migrating whales, resident seals, sea lions, Sitka blacktail deer and lots of black bears.
Because of the distances and logistics, trips to the Queen Charlotte Islands must be planned in advance, and reservations are necessary. Therefore, it is best to call toll-free (800) 688-8959 for more information or reservations.
Though I have been to many gorgeous locales all over the globe, nothing prepares one for the raw beauty and magnitude of this last frontier on the craggy, windswept islands of northern British Columbia, Canada. The almost constant mist that seems to envelope everything is also the reason for the purity and the fertilization that makes these phenomenal surroundings come to life.
A whale tail shower.
Despite my current distance from Haida Gwaii, it will forevermore be a part of my dreams and visions!
Photos: by Bill Vanderford
