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Vanderford's
Travels
Visiting one of the last frontiers
Knowing that we were descending through an overcast
to land on a rain-drenched runway that was only 4,800 feet long in a
packed Boeing 737 was quite unnerving! Though he needed the entire
runway to stop the big jet, the Air North pilot did a tremendous job
of safely landing the heavy aircraft near the remote Indian village
at Masset.
 We
quickly deplaned and rushed inside a tiny terminal building before
boarding a 25-passenger helicopter for the 15-minute flight to the
famous Queen Charlotte Lodge. Despite the constant rain, the low
altitude flight allowed us to see the remote landscape that few
except the Haida Indians have ever trod. We flew over a small
portion of the Queen Charlotte Islands that are known to the Indians
as Haida Gwaii (Islands of the People). This archipelago of 150
misty isles is a unique section of British Columbia, Canada that is
experienced by few.
 Immediately
before landing, we emerged over the protected bay of the Naden River
that pours its fresh waters into the open Pacific Ocean through a
narrow opening that is just 50 miles south of Ketchikan, Alaska. The
big chopper landed on a special helipad located on a dock less than
50 yards from the main building of the Queen Charlotte Lodge.
This unique property has both historical and sacred
parts woven into the picturesque fabric of the landscape. In fact,
this particular land was once inhabited by nearly 10,000 Haida
Indians before diseases introduced by white settlers reduced their
numbers to less than a hundred survivors. Also, around the beginning
of the 20th century, a huge whaling operation was built here. Though
only remnants remain of the whaling or the former Indian village,
one can’t help but feel the spirit of the Haida or imagine the
toughness of the whalers in the wet and windy beauty of this harsh,
but beautiful land.
Emerging from this magical rainforest is the Queen
Charlotte Lodge, which is an extremely eco-friendly set of
structures that offers far more than some of the best sport fishing
in the world. QCL easily sets the standard for comfortable
accommodations warm friendly atmosphere, and genuine Canadian
hospitality by an always enthusiastic staff.
 The
largest draw to this area is the one-of-a-kind possibility to catch
king salmon that exceed 50 pounds. These fishing grounds are the
perfect habitat for hungry salmon beginning their homeward migration
from all over the North Pacific to rivers along the West Coast of
Canada and the United States. The abundance of these huge fish and
other salmon species throughout these sheltered waters is legendary
among the native tribes as well as knowledgeable anglers everywhere.
In addition to the migrating salmon populations, the
whole area is a spawning ground for tasty halibut, lingcod, and
numerous species of rockfish. For fly and spin fishermen,
opportunities abound to catch coastal cutthroat trout, sea-run Dolly
Varden trout, and during the colder months, steelhead trout enter
many of the nearby rivers.
The Queen Charlotte Lodge offers highly-trained,
professional fishing guides for any of these angling endeavors.
Visitors can also utilize a fleet of 17-foot custom-built fishing
boats if they prefer fishing without a guide.
 Probably
the most educational outing is to use one of the fishing boats or a
sea kayak and explore the many shorelines and inlets. This also
incorporates plenty of wildlife viewing, which in the Queen
Charlotte Islands can be varied and extremely interesting. Depending
on the season, visitors may see many strange birds and quite a few
different mammals including migrating whales, resident seals, sea
lions, Sitka blacktail deer, and lots of black bears.
At the end of a fishing or exploring day, the lounge
in the main lodge is the place for guests to share the tradition of
telling stories of their day’s adventures, which is always followed
by a memorable dining experience of delicious West Coast creations.
After dinner, one can prepare the body for another exciting day by
enjoying a soothing massage at the lodge.
Because of the distances and logistics, trips to the
Queen Charlotte Islands must be planned in advance, and reservations
are necessary. Therefore, it is best to call toll-free (800)
688-8959 for more information or reservations to either QCL or their
year-round lodge at Masset House. This 12-person lodge is located
right on the waterfront in the village of Masset, only about 30
miles from Naden Harbour. It provides the perfect venue from which
to explore the rest of these incredible islands and have access to
the great winter steelhead fishing.
Though I have been to many gorgeous locales all over
the globe, nothing prepared me for the raw beauty and magnitude of
this last frontier on the craggy, windswept islands of Northern
British Columbia, Canada. The almost constant mist that seems to
envelope everything is also the reason for the purity and the
fertilization that makes these phenomenal surroundings come to life.
Despite my current distance from Haida Gwaii, it will forevermore be
a part of my dreams and visions!
Bill
Vanderford has won numerous awards for his writing and photography,
and has been inducted into the National Freshwater Fishing Hall of
Fame as a Legendary Guide. He can be reached at 770-289-1543,
JFish51@aol.com or visit:
www.fishinglanier.com.
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